Tuesday, 8 July 2014

Day 55: Eyre Depot Campsite to Mount Arden

Daily distance:23.5km
Total distance: 974.5km

Early wake up this morning to try beat the farmer and his guns, as he did not come round during the night. In fact it was a really good night with lots of warmth, even though half the one wall was missing. We were ready and all packed up before the sun came over the mountains and back walking on our fence line before the kangaroos had wiped the sleep out of their eyes.

It was spectacular walking along with the Flinders Rangers looming off to our right. 3 Kilometers later we came to the Eyre water tank, which we used to fill our bladders, have some coffee and morning muesli, before pushing on. Only a couple of hundred meters later we came to the Eyre momument, which was established because John Eyre had a depot and camp there on his many expedition's inland, the first of which was in 1848. Here the trail turned east and north along a track, which in no time at all was taking us up some hectic hills, however the sceanary was just outstanding. The trail came down off a ridge into a drainage line they call a creek bed and turned north.

We followed the creek for 7km in what is the most rugged and sceanic area we have walked in. It is wild broken country with jagged peaks towering over the creek and weathered rock faces overhanging the valleys below. Spectacular, but also very difficult walking, as there was no trail except for the creek bed. Luckely this was not flowing in many places, and when it was it was, only a trickle. I was tempted to take a dip in a few of the crystal clear rock pools, but the outside temperature was not much above 10°, and when I felt the water temperature I knew that if I went in, it would mean surgery to find my testicles. So photography would have to do and we would just have to live with the body oder for another 3 days or so.

The going in the gorge was slow because of the rocky creek bed and the numerous climbs up dry waterfalls, however it was stunning. We eventually came out onto track for a kilometer or so, then back into the creek. While walking we kept hearing vehicles way off on the ridges, which amazed me as the terrain was so rugged, I'm not sure I'd want to be driving my 4x4 around on these peaks. The hills started getting a bit greener as we headed more east, showing there was obviuosly more rain on this side. The vegetation also started changing and becoming thicker in on the slopes. We eventually came to the Mount Arden South water tanks and campsite where we stopped for a bite to eat. We had decided to push on a bit further, to try makes tomorrows walk a bit shorter.

We filled our bladders and headed north up the slopes of Mount Arden. Hard going, as it was very steep but the veiws from the slopes were worth it. The country around us just opened up on all sides and we could see forever. The first landmark I recognised was Mount Remarkable which we had left about 80km ago, and Mount Brown which we had walked over before getting to Quorn. At the summit of Mnt Arden was a direction pointer with distances pointing out all the different landmarks one could see. The most suprising for me was being able to see Lake Torrens and also the peaks of Wilpena Pound 85km away. We really did have a commanding veiw. Being 844m up it was a bit chilly so we didn't hang around for long, and started heading downhill.

In the distance we could see some 4x4 vehicles driving around on the peak and ridge tracks we had been walking on. As we descended one ridge, another came up in front of us and so up we went, again! As we crested one such ridge line two 4x4's came up from the other side. One was a Range Rover and the other a Toyota Land Cruiser, both driven by Brits with there families. When I said to Dee it was clearly school holidays because of the kids in the cars, she matter of factly said no, it's a weekend! I dont even know what day it is, never mind the date...... Great holiday!

While looking for a camp site up here, I kept hearing a kind of grunting sound behind me. I would stop and look round, but saw nothing. This happened a number of time until an Emu popped out from behind a bush.... Lifer!!!

By now the sun was getting very low so we wanted to get off the ridges to find a camp. However, Mr Heysen had other plans in mind and kept us on the ridge for another 5km. Well, we are still on the ridges camping in the most exposed campsite I have ever put up, hoping beyond hope that the wind does not come up or it starts raining. That would suck!

It was a long days walking for us, not so much in distance but more in time. It was rugged, it was wild, but it was spectacular! I am sure tomorrow will be just as rewarding.

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